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COPYRIGHT 2002 Consumers Union of the United States, Inc.
When we tested 25 circular saws--a mainstay for cutting thick boards, plywood, and the like--we quickly learned that the saw blade affects cutting speed as much as the saw itself. Most of the saws that were supplied with a plain steel blade labored to cut the 2x12s and 3/4-inch hardboard we used in the lab. All the better saws came with a blade whose teeth are tipped with tungsten carbide. Besides staying sharp longer, carbide blades cut faster than steel, even when new.
Our bottom-line advice is this: If you already have a circular saw but haven't been pleased with its cutting performance, spend $7 to $10 for a carbide-toothed blade. You may find that you don't need to replace your saw after all. But if you do buy a new saw, be sure you also buy a carbide blade or get a saw that comes with one.
Most do-it-yourselfers buy their saws at Home Depot, Lowe's, Sears, or Wal-Mart. Those stores carry the Black & Decker, Craftsman (Sears), DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, and Skil brands. Some saws cost as little as $40, while beefy, professional-grade saws can cost $200 or more. Most have to be plugged in to run, but there are some battery-powered saws on the market; the Ratings include four.
Judging from our tests, you have to spend $120 to $160 to get the very best, but you can get a fine saw for as little as $60. Any good saw will have many of the features shown on the facing page.
LOOKING FOR THE CUTTING EDGE
Speed. Seconds count if you have a lot of wood to cut. Speed also affects safety; you're more likely to push a slow saw, dulling the blade quickly and overheating the motor, or making the saw jam or kick back.
We gave speed a great deal of weight in the Ratings. The fastest saws were three to four times speedier than the slowest. Typically, the slowest saws came with a steel blade; the fastest, a carbide blade.
Power. A weak saw could strain when used on thick hardwood or for other tough work. Most of the saws had adequate torque for any...
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