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COPYRIGHT 2005 Natural History Magazine, Inc.
Sometimes, a place you've heard about but never visited takes on an almost mythic quality, and so Monomoy was for me. For years I'd heard about this remote and wild group of shifting islands in Nantucket Sound that had once been part of the mainland, forming an eight- or nine-mile-long peninsula that jutted south from the "elbow" of Cape Cod. Now almost all traces of Monomoy's more settled past were said to have vanished beneath the dunes. The surrounding waters were dangerous. Today--or so I imagined--only birds came to call.
Such preconceptions, romanticized by distance and a lack of firsthand experience, seldom withstand close...
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