counter intelligence.

Go ahead and ruin the big surprise.

Go ahead and ruin the big surprise. You'll miss out on the chair-swiveling "ta-da!" moment, but observing every step of the application process will help you replicate those techniques at home. "Always ask for a handheld mirror," says Rosemarie Cirminiello, a Lancome education manager. You're also entitled to a verbal play-by-play, and don't hesitate to request clarification and a take-home cheat sheet of the finished look. "Some makeup artists might get lazy and not want to do it," says Shirley Pinkson, manager of the Nars counter at Barneys New York in New York City. "But I don't know of a brand that doesn't have a face chart to jot everything down on." Get not only the name and placement of the products in writing, but also the order in which they were applied.

Go in for a follow-up.

Go in for a follow-up. If you still find yourself in front of the bathroom mirror a week later, staring at that new liquid eyeliner like it just fell from the sky, you should feel free to go back to the counter for a refresher course. "Makeup artists know that otherwise you'll probably just return the product," Pinkson says. (Policies vary by department store, but a product that's still in its packaging can usually be returned with a receipt.)

Complimentary doesn't always mean free.

Complimentary doesn't always mean free. Unless a makeup artist tells you before she begins that there is a minimum purchase requirement (typically about $35 for an hour-long makeup lesson), you are under no obligation to buy anything -- but be prepared for an awkward moment and a nasty stare. "It's considered tacky to just get up and leave after a full application," according to Pinkson, who says that a three-product purchase is the norm. "If you're getting your makeup done before an event, for example, it's customary to buy at least what you'd use for touch-ups -- usually a lip liner, lipstick, and gloss." Carlo Geraci, a personal shopper for cosmetics at Barneys New York in New York City, advises announcing your spending cap when you arrive. "Be honest. Just say, 'I don't want to spend more than X dollars today.'" Of course, if that number is closer to zero, it's best to keep it to yourself. "Most salespeople do get commissions," Gafni says. "You might get a quick slap job if they know you're not going to buy anything." .

Lame or not, excuses work. One saleswoman actually placed a pen in one of our tester's hands and told her to "mark down everything you want to buy." If you start to feel overwhelmed or too pressured, "you can always use the line, 'I'm going to walk around and look at the makeup in a different light,'" Jessup says. "Sometimes I'll even suggest that myself if I want to get rid of someone who's having a hard time making a decision."