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Handling it; Drawn by Mulberry's bohemian roots, Stuart Vevers takes the reins of the venerable British leather-goods house.

Vogue

| August 01, 2005 | Holgate, Mark | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Mark Holgate

Before beginning as design director at Mulberry, Stuart Vevers did some ending. First he terminated his Louis Vuitton consultancy. Then he dissolved, for the time being, his bag collaboration with Luella Bartley. Finally he shuttered his own label. But he has no regrets. "Mulberry is a rare thing in England," he says. "It's a British accessories house with a long tradition of luxury. I had to say yes."

Of course, luxury and British labels aren't usually synonymous. Avant-garde edge? Sure. Whimsical charm? Without a doubt. But hand-crafted luxury created by expert craftspeople? That's a very short shortlist-and Mulberry's right at the top.

Accordingly, Vevers has reined in some of his edgier, whimsical impulses. Vevers's debut Mulberry collection ignores the mantra of modern bag design-hardware, hardware, hardware-and emphasizes exquisitely worked leathers. There's the tassled Araline and the Astor, a buckled woven tote. Vevers's favorite is the Ayler, a roomy shopper. "We didn't line the bags, so you can really see the work that has gone into them," he says. "The leathers are very natural and will age well. You will be able to carry these bags for ...

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