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Byline: Mark Holgate
Before beginning as design director at Mulberry, Stuart Vevers did some ending. First he terminated his Louis Vuitton consultancy. Then he dissolved, for the time being, his bag collaboration with Luella Bartley. Finally he shuttered his own label. But he has no regrets. "Mulberry is a rare thing in England," he says. "It's a British accessories house with a long tradition of luxury. I had to say yes."
Of course, luxury and British labels aren't usually synonymous. Avant-garde edge? Sure. Whimsical charm? Without a doubt. But hand-crafted luxury created by expert craftspeople? That's a very short shortlist-and Mulberry's right at the top.
Accordingly, Vevers has reined in some of his edgier, whimsical impulses. Vevers's debut Mulberry collection ignores the mantra of modern bag design-hardware, hardware, hardware-and emphasizes exquisitely worked leathers. There's the tassled Araline and the Astor, a buckled woven tote. Vevers's favorite is the Ayler, a roomy shopper. "We didn't line the bags, so you can really see the work that has gone into them," he says. "The leathers are very natural and will age well. You will be able to carry these bags for ...