Insider Guide.(ordering tips in a restaurant )(spatulas for skin cream application)(Brief Article)

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By Lois Freedman Freedman is director of operations for Jean-Georges Vongerichten's eight restaurants, including Spice Market, 66, and Jean-Georges. When you go to a top restaurant, you should expect excellent service. That said, we aren't mind readers -- if having wines paired with your courses or the chef stopping by the table will make your night, by all means ask. A few other things to consider when hoping for special service: * Call ahead. We may need time to accommodate certain requests. Ask to talk to the general manager about getting a specific table, a particular server, or champagne waiting at the table when you arrive. There isn't an additional charge, just the cost of what you order. * Show your face. Of course, there are things you can't come right out and ask for; there's no secret code for "I want free desserts." If you are thrilled when the kitchen sends out complimentary tasting courses or a new wine to try, you need to become a regular. Every time you dine there, say hello to the maItre d' -- once we know your face, you'll be more likely to get the little extras. * Cut the grease. We don't allow maItre d's to accept tips. But if you want to go that route, at least do it on the way out, as a thank-you for services already rendered. It's less crass, and it could help ...