The Rough Cut.(hair care)

The Rough Cut

Salon Speak

The current buzzwords at the hair salon are "sexy," "natural movement," and "length." And, used correctly, they're the keys to explaining exactly the cut you want. * The emphasis now is on length from the collar all the way down to midback, but you can adapt this to your own taste and head of hair. Since not everyone can grow their hair with every whim of fashion, there is a shorter version of this cut. But "not a blunt bob or little-boy short," Garren says. Instead, hair can be cut to the collarbone with subtle layers on the bottom half. * On long hair, the first layer starts at the jaw -- "longer than in the past," Garren says. That gives weight and movement on the bottom of the cut, rather than pouf and volume on the top. Other layers frame the face and fall along the neck, and can be softened at the ends with a razor. * Bangs should hit just beneath the eyebrows, slightly longer at the outside. Rather than temple to temple, only the center section (from one brow arch to the other) should be cut. "It gives the face a sensual feeling, like you're just peeking through the bangs," Garren says. "And it makes the eyes the focal point."

The Rough Cut

Making It Work

From the season's playbook, some hairstyling tips to help you and your texture work together: * Fine Hair that tends to lie flatter than Arizona asphalt can benefit from mousse. "Put it in your hands, work it throughout your wet hair, comb it through, and let it sit," Garren says. Once it's dry, he recommends scrunching your hair with your hands. "That will give it a little more meat." * Wavy Instead of a brush, which only makes waves go flat or frizzy, use a wide-tooth comb and an alcohol-free styling spray. "Spray it all over, comb it through, toss your hair over and back, and then let it dry naturally," Garren says. "Or, if you don't have time, you can blow it with a diffuser, cupping the hair with it as you go." This simple technique will encourage wave and discourage fuzz. * Curly To give curls "a sort of chunkiness," Garren rubs a styling cream (such as Garren New York Styling Creme) between his hands, throws the hair upside down, and skims them over and under the hair, working from the ends to the roots. Then he combs it through with a wide-tooth comb. "Wide teeth help the hair swing," he says. * Straight To create texture where there isn't much, Garren ...