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Beauty Reporter: Beauty 101.(hair care)

Allure

| August 01, 2004 | Birnbaum, Cara | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Deep Conditioner

Smoother, healthier hair in three simple steps. By Cara Birnbaum

If curling irons, blow-dryers, and double-process highlights are the sins of the hair salon, then deep conditioner offers salvation in a bottle. "As hair becomes damaged, it weakens, and the shaft becomes more porous," says cosmetics chemist R. Randall Wickett. But one 15-minute deep-conditioning treatment can "penetrate the cortical layers, filling in the weakened areas," usually with a mixture of protein, panthenol, silicone, and essential oils. If your frazzled hair is ready for a come- to-Jesus moment, choose a formula labeled "deep conditioner." Daily conditioners merely coat the surface, making frayed strands look healthier temporarily. Leave-in condition- ers lack the rich ingredients required to strengthen hair. The pros recommend weekly treatments for processed, heat-styled, frizzy, or coarse hair, and just once a month for a less-abused mane. Women with healthy virgin locks can forgo deep conditioner entirely. "You can't penetrate far into undamaged hair," Wickett says. "So those ingredients will probably go down the drain."

SHAMPOO

Massage the hair with enough clarifying shampoo to create a lather over the ...

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