What Lies Beneath.(cosmetic peels)

What Lies Beneath

Home improvement

At-home peels are to office peels what a local 5k race is to the New York City marathon: less glory, but rewarding nonetheless. "[At-home peels] can provide some benefits; the skin will look cleaner and fresher," Geronemus says. "But they won't do a significant amount in terms of removing sun damage, pigmentation, or fine lines." The CIR recommends that over-the-counter products contain no more than 10 percent of glycolic acid versus dermatologists' potential 70 percent -- and most companies stick to that. Even though these peels are less potent, your skin will be more sensitive to the sun posttreatment. Dermatologists urge that you follow each application with an SPF containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which screen UVA and UVB rays.

Lancome Resurface Peel Process: Part chemistry set (there's a petri dish for the peel solution), part day-spa treatment (there's also a terry-cloth headband), this four-step kit combines 8 percent glycolic acid with 5 percent "Physio-Peel En-hancer," a mild, hydrating acid that dissolves the attachments between epidermal cells, allowing the glycolic acid to penetrate more deeply with less irritation. One kit covers a four-week course of twice-weekly peels. Price: $145 (available in October).

Ellen Lange Retexturizing Peel Kit Process: This four-step kit -- two pre-peel exfoliators, a 10 percent glycolic-acid solution, and a postpeel soothing cream -- debuted in 1996. Its success (quickly graduating from a QVC hit to a Sephora top seller) later spawned a Clear Complexion Peel. Instead of the original glycolic-only mix, this solution contains an alpha beta hydroxy acid, which works better at clearing clogged pores and treating acne-prone skin. Price: $72.

DDF 7-Day Radiance Kit Process: Created by Sobel, this kit promises to minimize dark spots, stubborn rough patches, and fine lines. "After the week's course, the cumulative effect is that of a superficial or light-medium peel," Sobel says. Each daily dose, individually packaged in a tiny vial, contains lactic, glycolic, salicylic, and citric acids, which are mixed at the time of application with a cocktail of antioxidants, including zinc, Coenzyme Q10, and grape-seed extract, to neutralize wrinkle-causing free radicals. "People with sensitive skin should skip every other day and only use three ...