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In the flesh; Stripped bare of wasabi and soy sauce, crudo is the Italian answer to sushi.

Vogue

| June 01, 2005 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

A stone's throw from the glimmering Adriatic, lunch began with the local scampi and glasses of a local white wine. The scampi had been shelled but left raw, then sliced, flavored with olive oil and drops of lemon juice, and barely dusted with salt and white pepper. They were the finest scampi I have ever tasted-cold, sweet, and crisp-a paragon of the crustacean race.

Scampi are not shrimp, despite the way the word is sometimes used. Scampi is the Italian name for what some people call Dublin Bay prawns and others Norway lobsters, and what the French mean by the word langoustines. The world's best scampi live (and die) in the ...

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