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IT's been a while since this column has reviewed ingredients of interest to formulators of skin products. Though not all necessarily new, the following may have escaped notice of the readers in the daily deluge of technical mail which we all receive.
UROCANIC ACID (UCA)
CTFA's CIR expert panel reviewed this ingredient again at its August 26-27 meeting. Dr. Gerald McEwen, the industry liaison representative, reported on four tests run by the industry that showed UCA neither penetrates nor accumulates in human skin (even though it does both in mouse skin). Short-term carcinogenicity, guinea pig phototoxicity, and photo allergenicity tests were all negative. …