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Byline: Mark Holgate
New York designers have always been in too much of a hurry to spin a yarn around their collections: You want to watch a story unfold? Go to the movies. They were happy to leave it to the Europeans to wax lyrical about life at prerevolutionary Versailles, or the style of some obscure avant-garde actress. These days, however, the pool of talent that has emerged in Manhattan is more than happy to tell tales. Derek Lam's next collection, his fourth since he started in 2003, was inspired by the late Helmut Newton's autobiography, where Newton told of a love affair he'd had in prewar Singapore with the mysterious Josette. History-not to mention Helmut-doesn't relate what Josette actually wore, but Lam imagines her in great detail as someone standing at the crossroads of east and west, wearing a look that aspires to be Parisian couture but which in ...