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Bread & water; A little-known soup once fed to French prisoners, Jeffrey Steingarten writes, has evolved into a dish fit for kings.(panades)
Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
You know how, when you're walking in the woods hunting for mushrooms, and you can't spot even one little fungus, and just as you're feeling like a total failure as a woodsman or woodswoman, as a naturalist or child of nature, you look down and spot a mushroom at your feet, camouflaged against the fallen leaves, and then you look up and all around you there are mushrooms, mushrooms everywhere, hundreds and thousands of mushrooms that you somehow couldn't see before? And once again you feel in touch with the entire universe? The same is eerily true of panades, though not the universe part.
Loosely speaking, a panade is a layered ...
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