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Byline: Jay Fielden
First it was Cuzco, then Extremadura, Cameroon, New Guinea, and Dahomey (now Benin), the west African kingdom once protected by thousands of Amazon warriors. In 1967, on one of his yearly voyages, Penn traveled there with a portable studio: a tent designed to shed northern light-which "painters have always admired"-his camera equipment, and gifts for tribal chiefs (Chanel No 5). One day, he caught sight of something that brought his jeep to a halt. "I'd seen many things in museums," he says, "but never anything like this." There, staring back from the doorways of village huts, were clay shrines to some mysterious god. Mouths agape, with seashells for ...