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broken bread; America is in the grip of an Atkins fixation, and an industry has grown up to service it.(Column)

Vogue

| October 01, 2004 | Hitt, Jack | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jack Hitt

Prowling the Vermont- Canada border, I am off to explore the dark underbelly of America's current low-carb mania. My five associates-all girls under the age of twelve, two daughters and three friends-seem uninterested in my mission as we pull into the factory of Ben & Jerry's ice cream. The company has begun producing a line of Carb Karma ice creams that cater to the now-estimated 24 million Americans who are on some form of a carb-conscious regimen, like the Atkins or South Beach diet.

Is there any doubt that America is in the grip of one of its periodic dieting crazes? Every other day, some improbable item (like low-carb ice cream) ...

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