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thrill of the hunt; Having declined offers to reimagine other grand old houses, Jean Paul Gaultier has at last taken the reins at Hermes-for a debut steeped in luxury and tradition.(fashion designers)

Vogue

| July 01, 2004 | Bowles, Hamish | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Hamish Bowles

At the storied premises of Hermes's Faubourg Saint-Honore flagship, Jean Paul Gaultier is putting on the finishing touches to his debut runway collection for the house. "Feel the quality!" he exclaims, poring over the satin-soft calfskin of a toffee-colored blouson. Then, with a salesman's practiced flourish, he runs his fingertips down the stab-stitched side seams on a pair of jodhpurs-"All, all, all, all, all is done by hand," he says proudly.

And then it is back to business, as Gaultier's effervescent public persona segues into the earnestly contemplative profile of the designer at work. He is very much intent on the task at ...

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