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Vogue

| December 01, 2004 | Talley, Andre Leon | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Andre Leon Talley

The weather outside couldn't make up its mind. Was it Indian summer, with cumulus clouds blithely floating over the gilded domes of

the Tuileries gardens? Or was it a typically brisk Parisian autumn, with sudden sullen bursts of rain?

Inside, however, France's designers sailed a clear and sure course into uncharted fashion longitudes and latitudes. It was water, water everywhere, with maritime themes abounding, and a fresh accent on fluidity of fabric and fluidity of drape.

BY THE SEASHORE

Helmut Lang and Nicolas Ghesquiere pursued parallel themes on the buoyancy of being. Both went to the navy-French or American, I'm not sure-for inspiration.

No, neither of these sometimes swaggering auteurs swung from any mutinous masts: Both collections were terrifically wearable.

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