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over the tapas; To throw the most audacious holiday dinner, Jeffrey Steingarten devotes a month to learning the recipes of the greatest chef in the world.

Vogue

| December 01, 2004 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

What an amazing New Year's Eve dinner it will be! I've been working on the menu day and night. Only one thing's been settled. We'll start off with a batch of amazing homemade foot-long potato chips. Our guests will gasp and cheer, then crunch through the entire bowl in the blink of an eye. Your homemade foot-long potato chips are total genius! they'll exclaim. I'll blush falsely. Tell us how you made them? they'll plead. At last I will relent.

And that's just for starters. The rest of the meal is slowly taking shape. I'm pretty sure dessert will include large sheets of fresh, sweet pineapple, browned lightly in butter, then ...

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