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ultimate cooking; Small restaurants, moderate prices, talented young chefs, and bakers who stay up all the night.

Vogue

| September 01, 2004 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

I have found it," I exclaimed, pounding the table in triumph. My wine splashed onto the dark wood table, then trickled into my lap. The other customers stared and began to ask for their checks. No matter. I had finally found it.

I would have exclaimed, "Eureka!" in the original Greek, but I am reluctant to flaunt my command of ancient languages in public, limited though it may be to a single word. My favorite and only word of modern Greek is karpouzi, which is how they say watermelon. Has anybody ever said it better than karpouzi?

I was dining at Casa Mono when my Eureka moment struck. This is a newish little boIte ...

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