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scoop dreams; At the controls of his very own 300-pound soft-serve ice cream machine, Jeffrey Steingarten transforms Mister Softee into one of the world's tastiest frozen desserts.

Vogue

| August 01, 2004 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

There is a Mister Softee truck on my corner. I love its little song so much, I sometimes sing along. "Here comes Mister Softee, the soft ice cream man," it goes, "the creamiest, dreamiest soft ice cream, you get from Mister Softee. For a refreshing delight supreme, look for Mister Softee. My milk shakes and my sundaes and my cones are such a treat. Listen for my store on wheels ding-a-ling down the street." Only a tiny fraction of the general population knows these words. Now you know them, too.

But now our truck is silent; today its song is stilled. A silly city law says that if a Mister Softee truck stays put in one place, ...

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