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Vogue

| June 01, 2004 | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

"Keep it simple, keep it gorgeous!" That's what Phoebe Philo says every time I see her: "Keep it simple, keep it gorgeous!"

The 30-year-old Londoner shuttles constantly back and forth on the Eurostar to Paris, where she designs Chloe. She has three years and six collections under her gilt-edged, bohemian-chic highwayman's belt-and the latest, for fall 2004, is her best yet. She has made Chloe soar in a way it has not soared since the seventies, when Karl Lagerfeld first made the house one of fashion's most-wanted labels.

Under Lagerfeld, Chloe defined French ready-

to-wear for years. Chloe stood for elegance . . . with a difference. And Lagerfeld made it his divining rod to the headiest of careers (at Chanel, Fendi, and Lagerfeld Gallery). Philo, for her part, took the reins quietly, without ado, stepping up from a secondary design slot when her friend Stella McCartney left to create her own label.

In Philo's first months at the helm, if a Vogue editor were to stop by the atelier, they'd find a very polite, well-mannered, and perhaps not-so-confident young English girl obsessed with the French Riviera style of the swinging seventies: the jet-set sleek of Talitha Getty, Bianca Jagger, and Marisa Berenson. (In her first show, Philo chose to riff on a Lagerfeld-for-Chloe suit from the disco days, a great scissor-cut white suit a bit like the one John Travolta wore in Saturday Night Fever. Even Lagerfeld found it admirable.) Today, a Vogue editor dropping by Bergdorf Goodman on an April afternoon to check out Phoebe Philo's first-ever trunk show would encounter a modest woman who has found her confidence-a designer unmistakably come into her own.

BERGDORF BLONDE

"What exactly is a trunk show, anyway?" Philo-just arrived in the States, for a hectic four-day Chloe tour-asked Stylefaxer as she watched quietly from a corner while a swarm of fashion bees droned about with their charge cards. "It's where you can make a season go through the roof!" Stylefaxer replied. "American designers like Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors swear by them."

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