American horse meat coveted in Europe.

Byline: Tom Lochner

WALNUT CREEK, Calif. _ Once an ersatz beef of the poor, horse meat has morphed into a high-end fare of discerning European carnivores.

And some of the world's tastiest comes from the United States, where mustangs roam the range buffing up on nothing but grass, according to European horse butchers.

"Horse meat is very good for your health," said Max Marki, proprietor of Boucherie Chevaline on the Boulevard du Pont d'Arve in Geneva, Switzerland.

"During World War II, it was the meat of the poor. Now it's become a therapeutic meat. Doctors recommend it, especially for people with heart problems."

"It's lean, high …