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I was standing in the main hall of Tribschen, Richard Wagner's former villa on the shores of Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. A handsome and stately, if slightly faded-looking, mansion, it is now a museum honoring his time there (1866-72) and the music he composed while a resident. Its elegant salons and glittering display cases promised hours worth of perusing. Unfortunately for me, however, the museum was just closing for part of the day, as museums have a habit of doing the moment one finally finds them. "You must take the boat across the lake," the young Swiss girl at the front desk insisted. "It's a brilliant ride, and not terribly expensive. The boat leaves quite ...