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Le Festival d'Aix-en-Provenee, France's first and foremost opera festival, has had a checkered history. Founded in 1948, it rapidly gained a reputation as one of the most attractive venues in which to see Mozart operas in summer. In the courtyard of the Archbishop's Palace, one could catch such talents as Teresa Berganza, Graziella Sciutti, Tatiana Troyanos and Leopold Simoneau early in their careers. Later on, the classic repertory was extended, modern works sometimes popped up, and in the 1980s Aix happily embraced the sleeping beauties -- period instruments. But standards varied wildly, and between unforgettable triumphs with star-studded casts there were nights of ...