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great grains; Jeffrey Steingarten discovers a secret recipe that turns rice into a dish of true delight.(Column)
Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
There we were at Bombay Talkie on Ninth Avenue in New York City, several long hibernal blocks from my house, munching on Bombay street food and other dishes by the light of a plasma screen flickering with the best of Bollywood. The owner is Sunitha Ramaiah, who grew up on her grandfather's tea plantation in Udhagamandalam in India's deep south before studying at Princeton, and the recipes are her mother's. The dishes were so good (and the surroundings so hip yet welcoming), I never wondered why the food isn't called Mumbai street food. I mean, are the Indians truly serious about throwing off the yoke of colonialism or what? You ...
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