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Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
The missus and I turned off the main highway that runs between San Sebastian and Bilbao along the northern coast of Spain and headed south to find the town of Axpe and the remarkable restaurant Etxebarri. This is Basque Country, as you can tell by the great excess of x's in their words. They really like k's, as well. (Once you learn that tx is pronounced "ch," as in chewy, chunky, or churchmouse, you have mastered one of the thousand mysteries of the Basque people, whose origin is only a matter of conjecture. The province around San Sebastian is named Gipuzkoa. Does this look like any language you've ever seen?)
Here is what ...