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hell & high water; When Robert Fairer went for an early-morning dive in Thailand on December 26, he little knew what the ocean would yield.

Vogue

| March 01, 2005 | Fairer, Robert | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Robert Fairer

The morning is perfect. As we sit at the breakfast table our caretaker, Wittaya, hurtles past us and out of the house. An hour later he returns white as a sheet. The maid explains that there has been an earthquake in his village, four miles away. We hadn't felt any tremors and assume it is probably a small disturbance and nothing much to worry about. My wife, Vanessa, and I decide to go down to "our" beach for an early-morning snorkel before the rest of the family wakes up. The sea has been stirred up for the past five days, but this morning it is like glass.

We wander down to the perfect, banana-shaped crescent below the house at ...

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