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IMAGINE THAT.(celebrity's thinking about fashion)

Vogue

| March 01, 2005 | Wintour, Anna | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Anna Wintour

This is our fifth annual power issue, and it celebrates the spirit of independence that strongly infuses current thinking about fashion-and is so badly needed in a time when, it seems, a certain resistance to the dominant forces is also badly needed. This is the case whether you're reacting to the perils of a tsunami (and please read Vogue photographer Robert Fairer's account of how he survived the Phuket disaster by literally swimming against the tide); or trying to save Africa one tree at a time (see Alexandra Fuller's profile of the Nobel Peace prize winner Wangari Maathai); or using fashion in order to stimulate trade and economic self-sufficiency to the poorest parts of the world (see Robert Sullivan's "Stream of Conscience," a revealing portrait of Bono and wife Ali Hewson).

Speaking of fashion-always a pleasure in March, when the new season is finally upon us-I can't recall a time when independence and spiritedness were so relevant and appealing. I'm not suggesting that designers are in a wild mood, or even in a particularly avant-garde one. As Sally Singer argues in her portrait of Lanvin's Alber Elbaz, a certain power shift has occurred in the relations between the designer's imagination and that of the woman who wears his creations. It's understood by all concerned that a woman should not be dictated to in the matter of her individual style; her imagination should be stimulated and her feelings touched.

The result is a profusion of colors and prints that makes this season as emotional and joyous as I can remember. I love the playfulness and practicality of carrying a big bag with a small bag (see Elisa Santisi and Raymond Meier's "Extra, Extra!"). This is an innovation that I think will last. There is also staying power, I suspect, in the very dressed aesthetic that Grace Coddington and Steven ...

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