High Noon in the Garden.

BYLINE: Richard Wofford

It has been 10 years since the publication of what most locals in Savannah refer to as The Book. Although most of its real-life protagonists have since passed away, John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil reminded the world that Savannah not only still exists but provides amnesty to a myriad of delightful misfits devoted to keeping it alive. Today, The Book's impact seems apparent only in the city's tourism industry, while larger forces shape the resurgence of what Lady Astor described as "a beautiful woman with a dirty face."

The transformation has taken decades, but Savannah's face is being thoroughly washed and exfoliated. Longtime residents are wary and suspicious of the change: restoration requires money, and Savannah has had less than its northern neighbor Charleston. But recognizing that continued neglect is tantamount to suffocating a loved one, the locals are embracing the revival if only for the thrill of seeing the town's inherent beauty resurface. Fortunately, two of the main benefactors have the parallel goals of saving buildings while maintaining Savannah's true character. Both the Historic Savannah Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to balancing preservation and diversity, and the Savannah College of Art and Design, now the largest art school in the U.S., have reanimated significant portions of the town.

Savannah is less idyllic than dreamlike. Living in full relief amid its architectural diversity, its 22 public squares, its oak canopies protecting ...