Barcelona beyond Gaudi.(Knight Ridder Newspapers)

Despite the hoopla over the city's famed architect, there IS more to Barcelona than Gaudi.

A gracious burg of 1.5 million _ double that if you count the surrounding areas, Barcelona is a comfortable place for a stroll, a cable car ride to the Castell de Monjuic high above the city, or a tour on the city-operated tourist bus, which allows riders to hop on and off at designated stops. The metro is inexpensive _ a 10-ride ticket costs about $6 _ and easy to use. And whenever you're tired, you can plop down at a cafe for coffee, stop in a bookshop _ there seems to be one on nearly every corner _ or step into one of the countless tapas bars for a little ham sandwich or plate of shrimp in olive oil.

For tourists, La Rambla is the main thoroughfare, a wide walk lined with flower stalls and cafes and the statue-like performance artists _ a fairy on a lamppost or a man in a bowler sitting up on a toilet _ who come alive when you drop a coin into their hats. Small, shop-filled streets roll off to either side _ some delightful, some a bit seedy. And eventually, you come to the harbor, home to an aquarium, the Museum of Catalonian History and an entertainment and shopping center.

The centerpiece of the old city is the winding Gothic district, crowned by the cathedral dating from the 13th century. The facade, however, is an early 20th century creation _ as is much of the quarter, says guide Jose M. Sanchis. Still, it's a pleasant place to wander, shop and sip cafe con leche.

More interesting, perhaps, is the La Ribera district nearby, where you quickly get a sense of how claustrophobic the old city must have been and why residents would have been anxious to tear down the medieval walls and expand. Highlights here: the church of Santa Maria del Mar and the Picasso Museum.

Which brings us to Barcelona's wealth of museums. Along with those dedicated to Gaudi, the choices include the Picasso Museum, home to many early works by the cubist who started his career here; ...