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Letter from Dublin.
There was a time, not so many years ago, when Dublin seemed one of the most elusive of major European cities. My first visit there occurred during the spring of 1990. Although I had a pleasant time strolling in St. Stephen's Green, admiring the city's superb Georgian architecture and prowling through the marvelous second-hand bookstores, Dublin's true personality seemed hard to define; its charms were not worn on the surface. The entire trip was summed up by a visit to the Abbey Theater. Instead of feeling steeped in a great theatrical tradition, I was disappointed (as nearly everyone must be) by the ugly modern building with cheap and uncomfortable seats. In no time at ...
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