RESTAURANT REVIEW: Touch of Whimsy.(weekly)

Publication: Las Vegas Review-Journal (Las Vegas, NV)

Bookmark this article Print this article Link to this article Email this article Digg It! Add to del.icio.us RSS

COPYRIGHT 2003 Las Vegas Review-Journal

BYLINE: HEIDI KNAPP RINELLA, REVIEW-JOURNAL

If it looks like a gimmick and sounds like a gimmick, chances are really good that it's a gimmick.

Gimmicks are things that bad or even mediocre restaurants do -- though less and less these days, thankfully -- to draw attention to themselves when their food and service aren't enough. And the Lobster Martini at Marc's World Cuisine had all the earmarks of a gimmick. Why else would you stick lobster and mashed potatoes in a martini glass?

But the rest of the Marc's menu gave me pause. There was a lot of attention to detail there, a lot of innovation, a lot of variety without attempting something-for-everyone. So I decided to pick up the gauntlet and do a closer examination of the Lobster Martini ($16 for two). What would it be: a gimmick, or just a bit of whimsy?

Whimsy, yeah, which explains the martini glass. But the short version is...

Read the full article for free courtesy of your local library.