RESTAURANT REVIEW: Carluccio's Tivoli Gardens.(weekly)(Review)

Publication: Las Vegas Review-Journal (Las Vegas, NV)

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COPYRIGHT 2004 Las Vegas Review-Journal

BYLINE: HEIDI KNAPP RINELLA, REVIEW-JOURNAL

I didn't have an Italian mother, but I grew up surrounded by them and acquired one by marriage, so I know a little something about them. And so I'm wondering about the provenance of the owner of Carluccio's Tivoli Gardens, because he or she apparently missed a refrain that would've been repeated (and repeated ...) by any self-respecting Italian mother.

No, not "mangia, mangia" (or "eat, eat," if you don't have a vowel at the end of your last name). It's "you only get one chance to make a good first impression."

I was chewing this over while I was chewing the bread at Carluccio's on a recent evening. We all pay a lot of attention to bread these days. The pioneering chefs who swept the country with a tidal wave of fine-food appreciation...

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