Raymond Blanc's simple chocolate mousse.

(From Guardian Unlimited)

For February's Observer Food Monthly we asked the best chefs and food writers to tell us which recipes they keep coming back to - the ones they grew up cooking or eating, or the ones they use over and again in their own kitchens.

Raymond Blanc swears by this tremendously simple chocolate mousse - could it be the easiest mousse in the world? It could perhaps the healthiest, given its lack of cream and very little sugar.

It also serves as the basis for some of his other desserts - below are tips for turning it into a fondant, a souffle or even a warm chocolate soup.

Gordon Ramsay on the other hand swears by …