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Behind The: Scenes.(makeup artists and shoe designers)

Allure

| March 01, 2008 | Morrill, Hannah | COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Hannah Morrill

W hat do you get when you combine a master shoe designer, a dazzling fashion team, and an impeccable hairstylist? The real riddle arises when it's time to photograph them for allure' s Influencers portfolio. Each year, we celebrate the most innovative people in fashion and beauty, and the scheduling alone could make your BlackBerry spin. allure photo director Nadine McCarthy began with photographer Norman Jean Roy, white-knuckling it while waiting to see if his dates worked for the subjects. Then style director Siobhan Bonnouvrier and bookings editor Ro Penuliar mapped out the locations, concepts, and logistics of the shoots. The results are on page 190; here, how it all came together.

BRUNO FRISONI

allure photographed shoe designer Frisoni in his natural habitat: the Roger Vivier boutique in Paris's Eighth Arrondissement. The flagship store, where Frisoni has an office on the second floor, is home to an impressive modern art collection, including a work by Nicolas de Stael. After greeting the crew, Frisoni stepped into his office for a quick meeting, while the allure team pulled tissue paper from shoe boxes, steamed clothes that had just crossed the Atlanticand drank espresso after espresso. "We were operating on about two hours of sleep," says allure editorial assistant Thomas Waller. The model sat for hair and makeup, then Frisoni put her in a pair of lilac-and-silver patent leather pumps, saying they were the "most important" shoes from his spring collection.

PETER PHILIPS

Makeup artist Philips, the artistic director for Chanel makeup, and the allure team were at Pier 59 Studios and ready to gowith the exception of the hairstylist, who was nowhere to be found. Fortunately, in the adjacent studio, hairstylist Guido (who was one of allure 's Influencers in 2007) was working on an Italian Vogue shoot. Guido graciously lent one of his assistants, Rafael Jiminez. Hair crisis averted, Philips and assistant Kumiko Hirose unpacked his makeup. "I'm a maniac," Philips said. "Everything has to be laid out almost militarily or I lose track." He took inspiration from the magenta Lanvin dress worn by the model, Veranika. "I used big tones, but restrained them by blending," he said. Philips's own makeup? Powder on the forehead. "It was hot!" he explained.

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