Shape Shifters.(cosmetics use)

Byline: Alyssa Kolsky Hertzig PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS SCHENK

Contour used to mean dark stripes and war paint. A new approach enhances your features without the obvious trickery.

The idea of producing higher cheekbones or larger eyes with the flick of a makeup brush is pretty appealing. But one glance at the cast of Dynasty and it's little wonder why women have spent the past 20 years shuddering at the idea of contouring their faces with dark makeup. Instead of painting on fuchsia racing stripes or an entirely new jawline, these days, contour makeup is all about looking natural. "The new, softer way of contouring just makes the face look betternot radically different," says makeup artist Polly Osmond, who created the looks on these pages.

This time around, the focus is on enhancing the eyes and cheeks with soft shades: brown-toned shadow and blush, and gently shimmering highlighter. And most importantly, "it's no longer just about darkening," says makeup artist Pat McGrath. "It's now contour and highlights, shade and light. The combination is what really enhances the structure of your face."

It also helps that there's a new emphasis on hiding your work. "Good contouring now means sheer powders, fluffy brushes, and serious blending," says makeup artist Troy Surratt. "The key is subtlety." And there's nothing Dynasty about that.

OLD-SCHOOL

These before-and-after photographs of model Lisa Vale, from the 1982 book Scavullo Women (HarperCollins) by Francesco Scavullo, show the intensity of contoured makeup in its heyday.