Zen Master.

Gary Snyder, the Zen poet, lives on a hundred backcountry acres in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, meditates mornings, and thanks his food before he eats it, clapping his hands together and saying "Itadakimasu," which is Japanese for "Thank you very much." He likes a boilermaker at dinnertime (a shot of bourbon and a tall glass of beer) and, on occasion, the bullfrogs from his pond. "I follow the 'Joy of Cooking,' " he says. "You've got to skin them and brine them overnight. She recommends rolling them in bread crumbs and frying them." He finds that vulture feathers make the best pens for calligraphy, and collects them when he hikes. Some nights, he takes a blanket and a thermos of sake and a star map, walks along a gravel riverbed not far from his house to a spot among the mounded diggings left by the gold-mining ventures of the past two centuries, and, by the light of a red torch, works on the constellations.

Snyder, who is seventy-eight, has written nineteen books of poems and essays that are engaged with watersheds, geology, logging, backpacking, ethno-poetics, Native American oral storytelling, communal living, sex, coyotes, bears, Tibetan deities, Chinese landscape painting, Japanese Noh drama, and the intimacies of family life. His reach extends far beyond the usual small audience for poetry; "Turtle Island," a collection of poems that won the Pulitzer Prize in 1975, has sold a hundred thousand copies. ("Turtle Island swims / in the ocean-sky swirl-void / biting its tail while the worlds go / on-and-off / winking.") He is, notably, a poet of the Pacific Rim. He told me, "I think of my territory as that which I have walked in person and know the weather at a given time of year, know a lot of the critters, and know a lot of the people. That would be from around Baja up to Alaska, through the Aleutian Islands, then pick up again in Hokkaido, down Japan and into Taiwan and the south coast of China, and the Pacific, which I know pretty well, having sailed it half a dozen times by a nice slow boat going fourteen knots, day and night." But if you met him in a bar in Japan or China or Korea, and asked him what he did, he'd probably say, "I do my best as a teacher and I'm kind of a clumsy farmer." (He taught in the English department at the University of California at Davis from 1986 until 2001, and has a small orchard.) The last book he wants to write, he says, is a "personal dharma memoir," a chronicle of Buddhism in the late twentieth century. "Like the rock climbers say, having fun doesn't mean you have to have fun," he says. "Being a Buddhist doesn't necessarily mean you have to be a good Buddhist."

A few months ago, looking over the wine list in a fine restaurant in nearby Nevada City, Snyder said, "I've got a twenty-five-year-old Cab I'm saving for venison--for when we get a deer again, on the road. In the winter season, I always drive with a giant black garbage bag in the car and a hunting knife or two." He pulled out a thick-bladed knife and laid it on the table. An appetizer of goat-cheese cakes, dotted with arugula pesto, kalamata tapenade, and roasted red peppers and truffle oil, arrived. Snyder lifted the knife and cut the cakes precisely in two. Later, when he got up from the table for a moment, a young, heavily lipsticked waitress came over and said excitedly, "He's one of my absolute heroes."

Snyder is shortish and solid and exudes physical confidence. A boy of the Pacific Northwest--born in San Francisco, brought up outside Seattle--he climbed Mt. St. Helens at fifteen; as a young man, he worked in Indian logging camps and fire-lookout cabins in the wilderness and on a trail crew in the Sierra Nevada, where he wrote the first poems that he wanted to keep. He wears a beard and has a turquoise stud in his left ear--it's been pierced since 1950--and has gray-green eyes that disappear into the planes of his face, like puddles in a dry season. One of his incisors is capped in gold, which gives him the rascally look of an old mountain man when he smiles. When I repeated the waitress's remark, he said, "You shouldn't have told me that."

Masa Uehara, Snyder's wife, sits on a rock--pretty, pregnant, her hair covered with a bandanna, wearing a long-sleeved shirt and jeans. The green Yuba River swirls around her. Snyder is in the water, naked, hoisting a naked baby boy (their first son, Kai) over his shoulder. The photograph ran as a centerfold in Look in 1969, with a caption that read, "Author Gary Snyder and family, in the Sierras, look forward to a new Neolithic age that will combine the love of nature, sex and life based on mythical truths."

Snyder was just back from Japan, having spent much of the late fifties and the sixties in Kyoto, undergoing formal training as a Zen monk. He had left the West Coast in the spring of 1956, several months after participating in what to many remains the defining poetic event of the previous half century: the Six Gallery reading in San Francisco, at which Allen Ginsberg first read "Howl" in public, while Jack Kerouac shouted, "Go! Go! Go!" Snyder read "A Berry Feast," an ode in praise of Coyote, a trickster figure from Native American myth: "Coyote the Nasty, the fat / Puppy that abused himself, the ugly gambler, / Bringer of goodies." The poem, which traces the destruction of forests to the building of the suburban house--"a box to catch the biped in"--is infused with the Buddhist idea of impermanence. It forecasts a time of "People gone, death no disaster," and ends with Coyote surveying a depopulated city where resilient nature still thrives--"Dead city in dry summer, / Where berries grow."

Kenneth Rexroth--the m.c. of the Six Gallery reading and a renowned poet, critic, and translator--was the presiding elder of the city's poetry scene, gathering young disciples around him for Friday-night instruction. Snyder had studied Native American oral traditions in the anthropology department at Reed College, and when he arrived in Berkeley to pursue graduate work in East Asian studies a friend took him to Rexroth's house. They hit it off right away. Snyder was translating the poems of the T'ang-dynasty mountain hermit Han Shan--an exquisitely terse and funny suite later published as "Cold Mountain Poems"--and studying sumi ...