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A Day at elBulli.(Brief article)(Book review)

The New Yorker

| November 24, 2008 | COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The CondÃ© Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

In the world of culinary porn, this five-hundred-plus-page tome of photographs from the fabled avant-garde restaurant elBulli, in Spain, is curiously banal. Little of the chef Ferran Adria's radical genius can be detected in the brochurelike text ("To produce a great wine you need the best grapes") and the mostly prosaic images (sommeliers at their laptops, for example). But when the food arrives one feels ...

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