Garden of Contentment.(Dragon Well Manor)(Restaurant review)

One day in September, I joined the Chinese restaurateur Dai Jianjun for a foraging expedition on a remote mountainside in Zhejiang Province. Ahead of us, our guide, Bao Laichun, cleared a path, hacking at branches with a bamboo-handled machete. The hawthorn trees around us were heavy with fruit, and, amid bamboo groves and tall grasses, birds and grasshoppers sang, butterflies flitted, and vivid beetles crawled on the ground. It was early in the morning, and the mountaintops were still obscured by mist. "You just can't trust the ingredients you buy in the markets," Dai told me, battling his way through the undergrowth. "Vegetables laced with chemicals. Fake birds' nests ...