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San Francisco Ballet, America's oldest professional ballet company, is celebrating its seventy-fifth birthday with a big tour, which earlier this month included a stop at City Center. For the past quarter century, S.F.B. has been directed by Helgi Tomasson, and you can tell. Tomasson, born in Iceland, spent his early performing years in Denmark, a country whose ballet favors clear, buoyant, and musical dancing. Then there is Tomasson's own personality. His stage career culminated in a fifteen-year stint at New York City Ballet, during which time he occupied the sometimes undervalued position of "dancer's dancer." He was correct, honest, and unshowy--virtues dearer to ...