Ranges: new models slice time and guesswork and yield new top picks.(LAB TESTS)(Product/service evaluation)

CAN SUCCULENT TURKEYS, savory hams, and mounds of mashed potatoes be fast and foolproof this holiday season? Several new ranges deliver both of those benefits with dual ovens, convection, and shortcut programs like the ones on your microwave.

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Electrolux, better known for vacuums, recently introduced its first ranges. One, a smoothtop electric, is a new top performer. Features include digital controls with a Perfect Turkey setting that uses a meat probe to measure temperatures and adjust cooking time. The setting and convection helped the range cook a juicy 13-pound bird in 98 minutes on its own instead of the 3 hours with frequent checks you might expect.

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Here's what else our tests revealed:

More multitaskers. Several high-scoring ranges from GE, Kenmore, and Maytag have a second oven that can slow-cook brisket while the other roasts a goose. Electrolux ranges have a cooking drawer below the main oven, also found on some GE and other models. But it requires lots of bending and doesnt self-clean. We also found the shallow oven drawer on one gas Electrolux better suited to flounder and other short orders.

A new top choice for baking. Smooth-top models sell best among electric ranges. But a new yoo coil-top from GE beat every other range we tested when it came to baking evenly.