Worthy wine cellars.(Lab tests)(wine chillers)(Product/service evaluation)

Sales of wine cellars, also known as wine chillers or wine refrigerators, have been growing as Americans drink more vino. We tested 13 undercounter and seven freestanding models with capacities ranging from 28 to 58 standard bottles.

Despite their small size--undercounter models are generally 34 inches high by 24 inches wide; freestanding models are narrower--some cost about as much as a full-sized fridge. Most excelled at maintaining uniform temperatures, essential for wine storage.

More companies are producing two-zone cellars, which offer greater flexibility in storing sparkling, white, rosi, and red wines at different temperatures. (Single-compartment models count on colder air settling to the bottom of the unit to provide various temperature zones.) Tinted-glass doors, adjustable interior lighting, and a tilt-up shelf are other features to consider. The Marvel and other high-scorers have smooth-gliding, full-extension shelves; the wire shelves on the GE Profile store bottles snugly. But those on the Kenmore and others let bottles slide about.

A noisy wine cellar can be a concern if it will be near living areas. The GE Monogram and Kenmore models were quietest. Energy use varies widely among the tested models; undercounter units generally consume less than freestanding models.

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Select Ratings 
 
Best choices from our tests of 20 wine cellars. 
 
                        Brand &     Price  Overall  Test results 
                          model              score 
 
Recommendation  Rank                                Uniformity 
 
Recommended     1     Kenmore       $ 500       67   Excellent 
                      (Sears) 9913 
                      (1) 
 
Recommended     2     Marvel        1,800       66   Excellent 
                      6SWC[600] 
                      (2) 
 
Recommended     3     GE Profile    1,200       66   Very good 
                      PCR06WAT[SS] 
                      (2) 
 
Recommended     4     Electrolux    1,400       66   Excellent 
                      EI24WC65GS 
                      (2) 
  ...