Square Meal.(Restaurant review)

For ten years, Yura's, the airy Madison Avenue muffin/latte/turkey-roll shop, has served the lionesses of Carnegie Hill as a mid-morning caffeinating hole and late-afternoon reheatable-meal hunting ground. Square Meal is the restaurant next door, in the bottom floor of a town house. Yura is Yura Mohr, the baker and chef who opened the restaurant a year ago. As for the square meal--that is what you get here. The name is perfect, conveying as it does the affectation of no affectation.

The surroundings are on message: bare floors and walls, bright light, no music, dirty-blond wood, sprigs of herbs on each table, bar shelved with cookbooks rather than booze (you'll need to bring your own, to round out your meal). The clientele can be square, too: bow ties, Belgian loafers, do-I-know-you once-overs. But the vibe, generally, is lower-key Upper East Side--genially conservative rather than garish or stuffy, more bookish than Botoxed--and so is the food, which is sophisticated but, by contemporary measure anyway, unadventurous. Although the menu changes with the seasons, Mohr's regulars have more or less forbidden her to replace ...