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Scent & Sensibility.(Durian)

Vogue

| September 01, 2008 | COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Photographed by Raymond Meier

What makes one kind of stinky food repulsive and another irresistible? Jeffrey Steingarten follows his nose.

There was a sharp knock at the door. We froze, holding our breath so that nobody would know we were there. Again the knocking came, this time even more insistent. We looked around for another exit, but there was no way out. How much longer could we hold our breath? Whatever would become of us?

The evening had started innocently enough. My wife and I were in Bangkok, the capital of Thailand and one of the best eating cities anywhere. A good friend, an American expatriate who has lived there for more ...

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