Sugar Rush.(Sweetiepie)(Restaurant review)

Byline: EDITOR: ALEXANDRA KOTUR

Julie Janklow's restaurant Sweetiepie is set to become the West Village's latest hot spot. William Norwich stops in for a taste.

Unless you are stuck on someone's yacht, when the conversation turns to fools and trifles, that usually is a sign it is time to go home.

Not, however, if you are guests of Julie and Luke Janklow these days, as were the interior decorator Miles Redd and the stylist Lauren duPont. The Janklows have been tempting the cognoscenti with everything from umpteen varieties of soup; grilled-cheese, BLT, and tuna-fish sandwiches; their British friend the food writer A. A. Gill' s secret roast-chicken recipe; supper pancakes; Cobb and other easy-chic Beverly Hills--type hotel-coffee-shop chopped entree salads . . . to dozens of fools, meaning dessert fools--better than a mere trifle, they say. All were convened and tested as the couple's due diligence for Sweetiepie, their brainchild restaurant set to open early this fall on Greenwich Avenue across from the Victorian Gothic Jefferson Market Library and garden (where--name that landmark--Miranda got married in the Sex and the City series).

Today in the restaurant space, the culinary reconnaissance concerns desserts that will delight or disappoint. Julie describes the pretty sweets awaiting trial as "bake sale--meets-- Marie Antoinette. " There are peppermint and almond meringues, lemon-anise tea loaf, chocolate cake, several fools including a Victorian rose pudding made with organic strawberries and a light biscuit, and what they call a "Sweetiepig," a towering ice-cream sundae of such groaning Technicolor proportions, it is a child of any age's sweetest dream.

"Around Mother's Day three years ago we wanted to go someplace with our son, August, that was magical and kooky, with manners," Julie explains, "but there really wasn't anything." The idea for Sweetiepie was hatched, "a restaurant for kids to take their parents to," reminiscent of the festive places she ...