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Byline: BY OLGA OF GREECE EDITOR: ALEXANDRA KOTUR
What do you wear when the Aga Khan Development Network in Khorog--a 7,200-foot-high, one-road town in the heart of the Pamir Mountains--has invited you to a ribbon-cutting ceremony for the inauguration of an electricity plant that will provide energy across the border to Afghanistan? "Smart casual" was the reply I received, an oxymoron that could exist only in the NGO universe I was traveling in. With the collapse of the Soviet Union, the electricity supplies in the Pamirs vanished as fast as the retreating Red Army. The desperate population scavenged for fuel wood, burning 70 percent of the forest cover in the process, so the advent of hydroelectricity is nothing short of a miracle made possible by the tireless efforts of the AKDN.
During my short stay I was privy to an extraordinary tour of the Pamir ...