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Plunge into the Abyss.

Europe Intelligence Wire

| February 08, 2008 | COPYRIGHT 2008 Financial Times Ltd. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

(From Off Licence News)

You may not have heard about this year's winner of The International Beer Challenge and, unless you're jolly lucky, you certainly won' have tasted it. Nor, sadly, are you likely to.

Dark, strong (11 per cent abv?!) and incredibly complex, Abyss from the legendary Deschutes Brewery in Oregon is as delicious as it is tantalisingly elusive. Getting your mitts on a bottle of Abyss is like finding a M alteser in a black hole. For a start, Deschutes doesn' distribute its beers on this side of the Pond and even if it did, Abyss is so good the Americans certainly wouldn' let it leave.

In the US, Men's Journal magazine recently named it the best stout in the world while Beer Advocate, the beer boffin's bible, listed it in its Top 20 American beer s. When the 2007 version of Abyss was unleashed late last year, cases rushed out stores' doors and online beer geeks are seriously flashing the cash to get some.

Entered into the IBC by the American Brewers Association as part of a widespread effort to raise the profile of the States ' hugely exciting craft beer culture, Deschutes' Abyss wowed the judges. "It ticked all the right boxes for me," says Zak Avery. "Although it was very dark and heavy, it was balanced. It was big without being brutal and had a wonderful unctuous, bittersweet quality that made it interesting but not cloying." Another judge, Glenn Payne, describes it more succinctly : "As a celebration of the brewer's craft it would be hard to better." Darker than a coalminer's worst nightmares, Abyss pours with the viscosity of port and a brunette, bouffant foam. Autumnal fruits, prunes and shortbread nuzzle in the nostrils, while beneath the bubbles lies a shimmering coming-together of flavours: rich coffee, tones of bitter butterscotch, pistachio nut and more than a hint of citrus-spiced chocolate. The finish, mellowed by maturation in oak bourbon casks, is deliciously dry and linger ing. It's a phenomenal beer and it's little wonder so many hanker after it. Abyss's victory strikes a blow for the dark side at a time when many boutique brewers are being all sweetness and light. Dark beer is what Deschutes' success is built on. It may now be the sixth biggest craft brewery in the US and the second biggest in Oregon, but it began life as a small brewpub in downtown Bend in 1988, during the embryonic days of America's beer revolution. While other ...

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