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Eyeliner.

Allure

| September 01, 2008 | Morrill, Hannah | COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Hannah Morrill

Applying liner is not as tricky as it seems.

We all have that friend who can apply eyeliner flawlessly in the back of a cab. At night. Without a mirror. But for the rest of us, mastering the technique requires a little more effort. "People take the term 'liner' too literally," says makeup artist Dick Page. "Dense, hard lines can look amateurish--the idea is more to sketch around the eyes for definition." Pencil liner is the easiest and most popular medium, and comes in three types: Traditional wooden ones are firm and resistant to fading; kohl pencils are smoother and good for smudging; and mechanical pencils are self-sharpening and produce a thin line. Neutral colors like black, brown, and gray are best for subtle definition. For more intensity, try a cream, gel, or liquid liner--all of which demand greater skill. And while you may not be lining your eyes in the backseat going 40 miles per hour, following these tips will have you drawing steady in no time.

Wipe off any existing makeup with remover. Then brush a small amount of translucent face powder across lids. If needed, sharpen your pencil and then skim the tip along a tissue to soften it. Place your middle finger at the outer corner of your eye and gently lift the skin up and out slightly.

Position the pencil on the outer corner of the lash line, tilt the tip slightly so it's on its side, and draw inward along the lash line in short strokes, wiggling the pencil in between the roots as you go. Stop just before you reach the inner corner of your eye. If there are any gaps, repeat to fill in the line.

Using your ring finger, lightly press the skin just below the center of your lower lash line. Place the pencil tip on top of the lashes at the outer corner, slant it so the side rests on the lash line, and draw inward--right on the lash line--stopping just short of the tear duct. Repeat until the line is solid.

Sharp lines can make eyes look smaller, so soften the edges by gently blending them with a wedge makeup sponge. Sweep a taupe eye shadow across lids; or, for a more dramatic look, apply a shadow in the same color as your liner, only one to two shades lighter. Finish with mascara.

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