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American Indian dresses.(Current and coming)(Identity by Design: Tradition, Change, and Celebration in Native Women's Dresses)

The Magazine Antiques

| September 01, 2008 | Fort, Megan Holloway | COPYRIGHT 2008 Brant Publications, Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

If you have not visited the Smithsonian's National Museum of the American Indian George Gustav Hyde Center, housed in the grand 1906 Beaux-Arts style Alexander Hamilton United States Custom House designed by Cass Gilbert at Bowling Green in lower Manhattan, the new exhibition Identity by Design: Tradition, Change, and Celebration in Native Women's Dresses should provide motivation. The unbelievably intricate dresses and accessories in this exhibition, dating from the early 1800s to the present, are more than simply articles of clothing--they are complex expressions of American Indian culture and identity.

Fully beaded dresses and moccasins, such as the ones seen at the far right, were made as expressions of honor and respect. The moccasins, often said to be shoes for the dead, were in many cases intended to honor special living relatives. The early twentieth-century biographer of a Cheyenne woman named Mary Little Bear Inkanish recalled that when Mary was a very young girl her aunt made her "a pair of full-beaded moccasins--even the soles were beaded--to show that this little girl's family would not let her feet touch the ground if they could help it." This lavishly decorated dress and skirt shown would have been worn only for very special occasions.

The Crow elk tooth dress (below left), is also a ceremonial garment that served as a badge of honor for the wearer and her family. In a native ...

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