Hairpin Turns.

Byline: Elizabeth Einstein PHOTOGRAPHED BY NORMAN JEAN ROY

Messing with a classic isn't always a bad thing. Softer, imperfect versions take the stiffness out of the traditional French twist.

It's the hairstyle of royalty, brides, and actresses yearning to clean up their images. But in recent years, the tasteful French twist has become so severe and stiff that it could be a form of punishment. When Cindy McCain wore her hair in a rigid updo on a recent campaign stop with her husband, the press recoiled, with gossipfeast.com calling the presidential race "tighter than Cindy McCain's bun."

It's time to put away the superhold hair spray. And that's exactly what hairstylists did at the recent fall shows, instead using brushes to tease the hair and styling products to add texture, so the twists had a soft, slightly messy quality. Ken O'Rourke, who styled the hair on these pages, aims for "different textures to make the French twist sexy, romantic--or even a bit tough," he says. "It's a classic style, but it doesn't have to look dated." And although the twist might seem tricky, with its quixotically placed pins and stern-looking seam, the pros insist these new versions really can be done at home, alone, without the help of a handmaiden. "The twist has connotations of an elegant woman who toils over her looks, but it's a very easy style to do and to wear," says hairstylist Guido, who whipped up seemingly effortless ones at Lanvin, Roberto Cavalli, and Peter Som. No matter which twist you do, let a few wisps fall out here and there--unless you're running for office, coming a little undone is actually good for your image.

"Different textures make the French twist sexy, romantic--or even a bit tough."

French Revolutions

Once you've prepped your hair with these styling instructions, follow the steps in "How to Get Rolling" to create the twist.