Warm-weather wines.(Product/service evaluation)

If balmy temperatures have you thinking about wines for summer sipping, you're in luck: We tested 49 wines and found 16 satisfying choices, nine of which cost $12 or less.

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Recommended wines include two refreshing types that are best well-chilled: perennial summer favorite pinot grigio and rising star rose. We also tested another up-and-comer, malbec, a rich red that pairs perfectly with barbecued meats and should be served neither warm nor cold (about 65[degrees] F would be fine).

Pinot grigio/gris. In the world of white wine, pinot grigios tend to be fairly simple. Most are light-bodied and dry. The excellent Clos du Bois, $14, and Yellow Tail, $8, have an intense yet balanced mix of tropical fruit, citrus, and Juicy Fruit gum flavors (no kidding; all are characteristic of pinot grigio), punctuated by a crisp acidity. The other choices have similar flavors (some also have a slight honey aroma) but are a bit less intense and less complex. All go well with fresh fruit and seafood.

Rose. At its best, this pink wine is drier and more complex than the Lancers rose that was popular a generation ago. The Yellow Tail, $8, has a touch of sweetness and a nice assortment of fruit flavors. It stands up to savory or spicy foods. The Muga Rioja, $13, is drier and leaner--acidity is more prominent than flavor or fruitiness. It pairs well with sushi; grilled, stewed, or smoked seafood; or barbecued meats.

Malbec. It's a full-bodied red, with medium to high levels of tannin and some spiciness. We found six that are very good, with a balanced mix of black and red fruit and spiciness. All combine a fruity and woody/oaky style. They can be drunk now and may improve in the next year or two. They can stand up to fairly rich foods: steaks, stews, ribs, or a mush-room risotto, for instance.

CR's take. As is often the case in our tests, a high price doesn't mean high quality. Some wines costing $20 or more, including a $25 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and a $22 Catena Malbec, missed our cut. On the ...